ROCK FALL

There has been a huge rockfall on the way to the cliff. This hasn't affected the climbing but makes it rather scary getting to the routes. The college has now suspended activity there. It might be possible to make a path from the other side but until that is done it's probably best not to go there.

A new cliff has been developed for beginners and has 3 top rope routes but no leading bolts as yet. To get to the cliff park at the parking place on the way to raudbua above the white house (where I live). Follow the road for a few meters then take the track leading down to the fjord on the left, follow this until you see the cliff in the trees. The routes range from very easy on the right to quite easy on the left. Flag lines are in place on some routes. The path has now been cleared so it is possible to get to most of the climbs without going under the loose section. Go towards Flekke from the teachers car park for about 100m to a gravel road on the right. Follow this to a parking place where the road stops at a steep grassy bank leading down to the fjord. Make your way down a steep valley to the fjord moving towards the left. When you reach the fjord follow the path along the waters edge to the right. Continue until you get to a tunnel, this is it.

News

All three roof routes at raudbua have now been completed adding 3 classics to the area. Having run out of projects I have now bolted the line on the hanging prow between sectors 3 and 4. This is always dry so will be able to work on it into the autumn, likely to be at least 9-.

Introduction

This is not just a guide to the climbing at Haugland it is a Blog, as such you are invited to leave comments about the climbs.
There are two areas at Haugland, Haugland cliff and Raudbua cliff.
Climbing started at Haugland in 1995 when RCNUWC opened. After some initial exploration using traditional gear it was obvious that the college should purchase a drill. Raudbua is a more recent discovery, first dismissed as a "loose pile of". Closer investigation revealed solid clean rock under a veil of white dust.
When the first ascentionist is not mentioned it was me.
Norwegian grades are used throughout.
Since the Haugland cliff is used extensively by students there are blue cords in place so that they can pull top ropes through the anchors. Please replace these if you use them.

Here is a map:
and another one

Both cliffs get a fair amount of sun. During term time, if the sun is shining you can be almost certain to meet someone from the college at the Haugland Cliff.

Haugland 1

After about 100m you will pass a wooden ladder propped up against a short wall. The short wall is one of the many bouldering areas at Haugland, "The slottery". Sector 1 is just beyond this.



1.1 Lancastrians Can't Drink 7
Climbed as a top rope route by Phil Berry, named after him but not by him. Not worthwhile, bolts soon to be removed
1.2 Estonians Can't Climb 5
Climbed by Phil Berry.
1.3 Ukranians Can't Dance 5+
Bolted and named by Chris Hamper and given to Pavlo Voytenko (Ukraine) as a leaving present.
1.4 4Ply Paraply
Hangers now removed, a worthless route escapable and loose.

Haugland 3

Sector 3 is above the boulder. Most of these routes finish at the top of the cliff, there are no lower offs unless stated.
3.1 Infernal Assessment 5+
Starts up Extended essay but the breaks out left following the line of glue-ins. First climbed by Alistair Robertson.
3.2 Extended Essay 5+
The original route to the top not to be confused with 4000 words of the same name. Difficult to do since Alistair is normally taking someone up it already.
3.3 Pick a pocket 5+
Another route to the top bolted and climbed by Alistair Robertson.
3.4 Road to nowhere 4+
Usualy done as a top rope route by beginners, belay bolt not idealy placed, watch out for the swing.
3.5 Environmental Gardner 6
Required the removal of a lot of green stuff before the firts ascent. Probably needs to be removed again since the environment seems to recover from these disasters remarkably quickly.
3.6 Miljø Maniac 6
As above.

Haugland 2

A little bit further there is a big boulder leaning against the cliff forming a large cave. The next sector is behind and to the left of the cave.
2.1 Graduation 8+
Crimpy and powerful up the line of glue bolts. Difficult to clip the 4th bolt, not clipped on first ascent.
2.2 Video No Input 8-
First roof not as hard as it looks fine climbing through the next bulge. Named after a message that always used to appear in the auditorium.
2.3 First Generation 6+
A popular route up the groove. Leading this has been the highlight of many students climbing year.
2.4 Kåre Kalsium 7
A nice airy route up the hanging rib, technical moves lead onto the slab. Clipping the bolt on the crux is difficult.
2.5 Magne Magnesium 4+ (photo)
A top rope route for beginners. Careful with the stretch on the first moves or you could end up down a hole.
2.6 Flying Italian 6
The start of TOK climbed as a route by those who can't do the top :-)
2.7a Alting 8
The line just left of TOK (first ascent Per)
2.7 TOK 8
Interesting moves lead to a powerful finish!
2.8 Friday Film Club 8-
Long arms needed for the first roof. Would be a hard route if it wasn't possible to rest in between the two roofs.
2.9 Global Concerns 8-
Weaves it's way up some very nice rock. Final roof is a bit awkward though.
2.10 The World Today 7+
A bit spoilt by the proximity to the boulder which would be rather difficult to remove.
2.11 Bens Turkish Visa 5+
Climbs out of the darkness. Named after a student from the US who claimed he didn't need a visa when we went on a climbing project to Turkey. He did, we laughed.
2.12 CAS Diary ?
A project bolted on the overhanging side of the boulder, so called because it was never tried. It was supposed to act as an incentive to train harder but since it was so difficult it had the opposite effect. Hangers now removed.

Haugland 4

The final sector is on the other side of the cave. This is the most popular sector for students since most of the routes dry quickly and have cords in place.
4.1 Basils Belay 5
The left side of the wall is climbed until you can stretch back to use the boulder. Named after a student who will remain nameless and his belaying technique.
4.2 Basils Direct 7-
As above but don't use the boulder.
4.3 Magnus' extension 6-
First climbed by Magnus Paulson as an extension to the start?
4.4 Magnus variant 6
The line slightly left of the extension.
4.5 Buckle Blunder 5+
The name alludes to the reason why I don't like harnesses with two buckles, originally climbed slightly left of todays route.
4.6 Higher level problem 7
Non jumping alternatives don't count. No holds on buckle blunder are allowed. A bit of an eliminate to say the least.
4.7 Ebletoft Project 8-
Clip second bolt from a big layaway out right before climbing crux. A bouldery little route.
4.8 Ekbo 5+
Climb the easy rock to an overlap, over this and trend left up the pocketed wall to the top.
4.9 Jug City 5-
Start as Ekbo but trend right to a lower off.
4.11 Andressen 5
A wandering line up to a lower off
4.12 Leif Høegh 6+
Nice long reaches up the slab to a lower off.

Raudbua 1

Routes described starting from the far left.
All routes named after Jacob Sande poems.
Most routes have not been climbed very often so are still a bit dirty.
1. Gåse 4
Sneak onto the slab from the left.
2. Katten 6+
Start sitting on the block. Steep start but eases off once over the bulge. First ascent was without the last 3 bolts, that was scarey!
3. Hannen 6
Same start as 2 but go right after the first bolt.

Raudbua 2

1. Daniel Davidson 8+
Sequency moves through the roof, crux is probably clipping the 5th bolt.
2. Morgon på Kobbesjære 8
Not as hard as it looks
2. Vesle Daniel 9-
Very powerfull dynamic climbing on undercuts and sidepulls with poor footholds.
Here is a video of Chris Hamper climbing Vesle Daniel in 2009

Raudbua 3

1. Lisa i Li 6+
Takes the leftward line awkwardly through the overhang and up to a lower off.
2. Etter en rangel 5+
From the overhang follow the glue bolts up to the right, to prevent rope drag don't clip the halfway loweroff. (unclimbed)
It is also possible to climb to a lower off at half height, this part is always dry and about 5

Raudbua 4

1. Likfunn 6+
Cleaned and climbed by Eske. Difficult to find some of the holds but they're good when you get them.